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If you're connecting your gas line to appliances, the pro doing the work may recommend flexible corrugated stainless-steel tubing (CCST). Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) with high-density polyethylene (HDPE) is another relatively inexpensive material commonly used for residential pipes. Ultimately, you'll need to find out what is permitted based on the code requirements in your area.

In North America, pipe measurements are listed as the nominal pipe size (NPS). This measurement refers to the outside diameter. As an example, a 1/2-inch copper pipe has an outside diameter of 5/8 of an inch. If a hardware store lists a pipe as having a 2 NPS, it means that all the pipes with this measurement have a 2 ⅜-inch outside diameter, regardless of wall thickness and inside diameter.

Even if you invested in the cost of a gas shut-off valve for your oven and other appliances, it’s a good idea to add a seismic shut-off valve as an extra safety measure. 

Gas shut-off valves for appliances are manual, meaning someone has to cut off the flow of gas. This leaves room for error, as you might not be home or might be too distracted to think about gas lines during an earthquake. An earthquake valve is automatic and will protect your home from gas-related disasters in the event of an earthquake.

Temporarily capping a gas line—for renovations or during travel—doesn’t require a permit. If you plan to remove a gas line and cap it completely, you’ll need to apply and pay for one through your town or city. Depending on your region and its local codes, you may pay between $25 and $100. To avoid a gas leak or other hazards, some cities take the job of permanently adjusting or capping a gas line out of the hands of homeowners. Instead, they require hiring a professional gas plumber.