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Most of the time, you’ll want to use screws on your subfloor rather than nails. Nails can actually weaken plywood, whereas screws can easily penetrate without damage. They also form a more secure connection because of their shape, preventing squeaky floors and tightly holding the subfloor in place. That said, some contractors do prefer nails depending on the type of floor covering because they allow for more flexibility.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.

Bump-out additions can add some space to a closet without requiring any significant structural work. This entails pushing back the existing rear or side of the closet, simply moving the wall into either an adjacent room or unused space. For ground-floor closets, this could even be extended to the exterior of the home, but that has its own complications. Bump-outs are a good discussion to have with your contractor if you’re just looking to increase the space a little—not renovate the entire closet space.

You can use a nail to find ceiling joists, but it’s not as reliable as a stud finder, and you’ll end up with lots of small holes in your ceiling. If the nail hits a joist, you'll feel increased resistance. Mark the spot with a pencil. Repeat this process regularly along the ceiling, 16 or 24 inches apart, until you've mapped out the joist locations.