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Hydroseeding over an existing lawn is possible, but certain adjustments are necessary since the process is for bare soil. Hydroseed mix is ​​usually very thick, which helps protect the seeds during germination. If you have existing grass on your site and still want to hydroseed, it's better to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying. A finer mulch mix means the seeds can root into existing soil without suffocating the existing grass.

There are a few time periods or conditions during which you should avoid aerating your lawn. For example, do not aerate when the ground is frozen or waterlogged, as it can damage the soil structure and grass roots. Aerating during the peak of summer heat or drought is also not recommended since it can stress your grass further. It's best to wait for cooler, more favorable conditions. Finally, newly seeded lawns should not be aerated until the grass is well-established, usually at least one year after seeding.

Power seeding machines do a great job of creating narrow trenches in the soil to plant grass seeds into, but aerating before power seeding can be beneficial for your lawn. By aerating first, more water, oxygen, and carbon dioxide can reach the roots of your germinating grass seeds. Plan to aerate your lawn about once or twice a year, whether you plan to power seed or not.

Yes, after the lawn is overseeded post-aeration, most of the seed germinates in the aeration holes. This leaves the soil undisturbed while lush and healthy grass will grow in the holes' place. The point of this is to create extra turf density in areas that really need it, such as a large patch of dead grass where a shed used to be.