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You’ll have to balance up the cost, the value of the tree (sentimental or otherwise), and the risk factors. An experienced arborist will help you understand whether transplanting is likely to be successful. The cost and hassle of transplanting a large, well-established tree are often not worth it, especially if the species is fast-growing and easy to source. The decision depends on the age and species of the tree, the conditions in the new site location, and how careful the company is when digging out and moving the tree.

Yes, it’s okay to trim low branches on a tree, also known as limbing up or raising the crown. Essentially, you’ll trim the lower third of the tree (trunk) and leave the upper two-thirds of the tree (crown). Arborists recommend trimming 20% of a tree’s leaves per season for two to three seasons. Trimming low branches allows light to flow through the tree, increasing circulation and making the tree stronger and healthier.

The best way is to start controlling tree height long before it grows too large, via careful pruning through the years. But that’s not always possible. If a tree has become too high or too large, use selective pruning to remove the most troublesome branches, one by one, without topping the tree. Gently shaping a tree like this can, over time, correct problems. You can also find growth inhibitors to spray on a tree to stop it from growing too rapidly, but use these sparingly if at all.

Deciduous shade trees (the type of trees whose leaves fall off in autumn) need to be pruned in late winter—between February and March. That’s because it’s easier to find and remove sick or dead branches when no leaves are present. And wounds close and heal faster in colder temperatures so pruning them at this time also makes them less prone to infection.