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Flushing the toilet only to realize it’s clogged can cause anxiety. To avoid a clogged toilet, use less toilet paper. If you notice that the toilet is flushing and refilling slower than usual, you can use a plunger to clear clogs in the S-trap. If that doesn’t work, call a plumber to check your system and possibly clear the drain lines.

Toilets typically connect to your main vent stack, a vertical pipe that runs through all finished levels of your home and exits through the roof. It’s located behind the walls, but if you have an unfinished basement or a utility closet, you may find a portion of it running the vertical length of the space. Some basement toilets use an air admittance valve instead, which is a small vent located in the wall directly behind the toilet that extends upward a few feet from the drain.

A standard toilet flange should fit snugly into the outflow pipe and sit level with the subfloor. Installing a new one without first removing the old one will make it impossible to form a seal and keep the toilet bowl bolted securely in place. 

However, if you’re dealing with leakage or wobbling because you’ve installed a new type of bathroom tile (making the floor taller), you may be able to avoid fully replacing the flange by opting for a toilet flange extender. Extenders typically come in kits for easy DIY installation, fit over the existing flange, and bring the drain connection higher.

First, check that you have cut off the water supply to your toilet. This is a project that can only be done safely if running water cannot reach your toilet fixture. If you're seeing water trickle out after you've confirmed that the water supply is shut off, you can probably rest assured that what you're seeing isn't a problem. It's common for leftover water to spill out when you're removing your toilet's fill valve. If something goes wrong while you're working on your toilet, you'll need to look at your home's policy to see if your homeowner insurance covers water damage.