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While hydroseeding is typically meant for bare soil, it is possible to hydroseed over an existing lawn with some adjustments. For the new seed to germinate and thrive, it needs good seed-to-soil contact. Without it, most of the seed may not take root and will die. To improve your chances of success when repairing a patchy area, mow any existing grass as low as possible and loosen any exposed soil before application. It is also recommended to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying, as this will help the seeds reach the soil and root without suffocating the existing grass.

Whether or not grass will fill in bare spots itself depends on the type of grass you have. For example, grass with rhizomes (e.g., Bermuda grass) and stolons (e.g., Saint Augustine grass) will naturally fill in bald spots as it spreads laterally. However, clump-forming grasses will not spread. 

Sod is different from grass because it comes in thick layers of mature grass, roots, and soil for quick transportation and easy installation. This is different from seeding your lawn, which involves directly laying grass seeds into the ground. Grass seeds take approximately 30 days to begin germinating and up to 18 months to reach maturity, whereas sod comes ready to go.

First, you should figure out whether you have dormant or dead grass. Dead grass won’t come back, so you’ll have to reseed if you’re hoping for a lush lawn. However, grass can go dormant if it hasn’t received enough water or if temperatures are too cold. If it’s still decently warm outside, you can revive dormant grass by watering it. But if it’s mid-January in New England, for example, you’ll need to wait until the weather warms up again. If you want to keep grass green in winter, consider a grass like Kentucky bluegrass, which maintains its color year-round.