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Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

If your driveway is cracked, you can repave it with a process called asphalt overlay. Overlay is more cost-effective than a full replacement but is better suited for minor cracks and issues. If you have major cracks or other problems like water pooling, asphalt overlay isn’t your best bet. Plus, paving over a cracked driveway only extends the lifetime by about 10 years, whereas replacing it would start the clock over completely to give you up to 30 years.

Whether you decide to DIY paver installation or want to hire a pro, it’s smart to understand the process. First, you’ll need to prepare the area by clearing away grass and dirt. Next, you’ll add the paver base of gravel and sand before laying the pavers on top. You may need to cut pavers to fit your space or the landscaping design and add edging stones.

The stones do not work well on uneven ground. If the stones are not buried into the ground and made level upon installation, they almost certainly will shift or crack on uneven ground. Additionally, rainwater or water from sprinklers can run under the edge of an uneven paver, causing erosion. In a freeze and thaw cycle, trapped water under the paver can cause the problem to worsen by shifting the stepping stones around. Use a bubble level to make sure the ground under each paver is as even as possible, even if the nearby ground is uneven.