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Chip seal layers gravel and a liquid bitumen one at a time on-site, while asphalt directly pours a pre-combined mixture. Asphalt must be sealed, but it will last up to four times as long as chip seal driveways. Aesthetically, chip seal has a natural, rustic look compared to the traditional asphalt slab.

Paver driveways are durable and aesthetically pleasing, but they do have a few cons. For instance, paver driveways are often more expensive than asphalt and concrete driveways. They also make it easier for weeds to grow where the separate pavers meet up. They may also be more likely to settle over time.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

In most cases, you don’t need a permit to repave your driveway, although some exceptions exist. If you’re widening your driveway and plan on widening the apron as well, you’ll usually need a permit from the Department of Transportation in your area. This permit costs between $50 and $300 in most cases. Most municipalities will also require a certified and insured contractor do the work relating to the apron and curb cut. You can contact your building department or ask your paving company if you need a permit. Your driveway professional will usually pull the permit for you.