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Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.

The primary downside of radiant barriers is their limited effectiveness in cold climates. They are designed to reflect radiant heat, making them less beneficial in cooler conditions where heat retention is more important. 

Radiant barriers require proper installation to maximize effectiveness. Incorrect placement can lead to minimal benefits. They also do not provide insulation, meaning they should be used in conjunction with traditional insulation for optimal energy efficiency. 

Cellular shades, especially double- or triple-cell varieties, are the most insulating window treatments. Their honeycomb structure traps air in layered pockets, creating a thermal barrier that reduces heat loss in the winter and blocks heat gain in the summer. For even more insulation, look for side-tracked cellular shades that seal the edges to minimize air leaks.

Yes, you need a 1.5-inch to 2-inch air gap in a cathedral ceiling to allow proper air flow and prevent cathedral ceiling venting problems. This amount of airspace allows warm, moist air to properly leave your ceiling to avoid moisture build-up and other issues that put your home at risk. You can also add an air vent for extra air flow.