Get matched with top landscapers in Wecota, SD

Many people have used old tires in gardens as raised beds, planters, tree rings, and DIY decor. However, these uses are not recommended due to the toxicity of many of the chemicals used to manufacture tires. These chemicals can leach into the soil and water as the tire breaks down, creating environmental pollution and health hazards for gardeners and their families.

The best type of rock for landscaping depends on your specific project and needs, as different rocks are suited for different applications. For covering large areas or creating an affordable driveway, consider gravel, but note that it can wash away in flowing water. For water features, river rocks are a good option. Flagstone and cobblestone are ideal for aesthetically pleasing patios and walkways. If you are building a stone wall, fieldstone or small boulders are up to the task. Large boulders and landscape rocks work well as statement pieces, to fill empty space, or to indicate boundaries, but be mindful that they can overwhelm smaller gardens. The best approach is to first define your landscaping project and then select the rock type that best fits that purpose.

Unless it only rains once in a blue moon where you live, you’re going to want water-loving plants in your garden bed or pot. A few ideas for plants that aren’t super fast-growing (meaning they’re good in pots or near foundations) and can handle a lot of standing water include: 

• Acorus (Sweet flag)

• Colocasia esculenta (Taro or elephant ear): In many climates, these are annuals, making them less desirable because you need to adjust the chain again after each replant.

• Equisetum scirpoides (Dwarf horsetail rush): non-dwarf varieties of horsetail are fast growers and can take over quickly.

• Juncus effusus (Curly rush)

• Osmunda regalis (Royal fern): Royal fern can grow quickly but can also handle being crowded, making them good container plants.

A scattering of leaves won’t pose a problem through the winter, but a thicker layer of leaves may not decompose before the first frost and can instead weigh down your grass and harbor mold or fungi. A thick layer of leaves also cuts off light and air that grass needs to grow. That’s why we suggest removing thick leaf layers within several days if possible. If your lawn goes dormant over the winter and snow has already caught up with you, then remove the leaves in early spring before your grass-growing season starts so your lawn can thrive.