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It is possible to burn out a tree stump if it is dried out and in an area of your property with a large buffer. Drill holes in the stump and dig around the base so it burns more easily. Then, build a small campfire on top using kindling and firewood. You’ll need enough to keep the fire going for many hours to completely burn out the stump, especially if it’s large. 

Monitor the fire closely to ensure it doesn’t spread, and have a hose on hand if it starts to get out of control. When the fire is out, break apart the burned stump and dig out what’s left of it.  

If this sounds like a good option, learn more about how to burn a tree stump before attempting it, as it does come with risks.

A tree growing close to a house can pose several risks, but removal isn't always the only or best solution. Potential problems include roots growing into the foundation and causing structural cracks, branches damaging the roof or promoting moss growth, and debris clogging gutters, which can lead to water damage. Trees can also provide access for pests and encourage mold. However, a small, healthy tree may not be a problem, and for larger, established trees, strategic trimming can be a cheaper and more beneficial alternative to removal. It is generally recommended to take action for trees within 10 to 20 feet of your home, especially if they are unhealthy or encroaching. Your best bet is to consult a professional arborist who can assess the specific situation and provide expert advice.

Whether tree roots will continue to grow after a tree has been cut down depends on the species. Some tree roots will eventually die because they can no longer get nutrients through photosynthesis. However, other species that reproduce through root sprouts can continue to grow and produce new sprouts for seven years or more. For example, the roots of elms, ficus, and willows tend to regrow aggressively, while the roots of pines, oaks, and maples will typically die. To determine if a root system is still active, look for new sprouts on the old trunk, stump, or any exposed roots.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.