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You should always hang drywall from the top down. Starting at the top makes it easier to create a straight, tight line between the ceiling and the wall. Any gaps that occur will be at the bottom, where they are easier to manage. You can either cut the bottom piece of drywall to fit the remaining space or cover the gap with baseboard trim. Additionally, starting at the top is physically easier, as you won't have to fit the top sheet into a tight space between the lower sheet and the ceiling, or try to balance the upper sheets on the lower ones while securing them.

The amount of drywall you need for a 1,000-square-foot basement depends on the ceiling height, angles, number of doors and windows, and more. To find the wall square footage, multiply the width and height of each wall, minus any gaps from windows or doors, and add the totals together. You’ll also need enough drywood nails or screws to install the drywall correctly.

The best way to make long, straight cuts is to use a utility knife and a T-square to score the sheet, snap along the score, and then finish the cut by cutting through the paper on the opposite side with the utility knife. If you’re making small cuts, curved cuts, or cutouts for electrical boxes or light fixtures, you can use a manual jab saw to keep costs down, but an electric spiral saw or oscillating multi-tool will get the cleanest, fastest cuts possible.

Yes, you can speed up the time it takes for plaster to dry, but it's important to do so carefully to avoid issues like cracking or crumbling. Proper ventilation is key; open a window or use a fan to circulate air in the room. Heat can also accelerate drying, but be cautious, as too much heat can cause the plaster to dry too quickly and crack. Check the plaster's packaging for the recommended drying temperature and set the room's thermostat accordingly. While managing humidity is important, avoid using a dehumidifier, which can remove moisture too aggressively and result in crumbly plaster.