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If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

A moisture or vapor barrier helps separate the warm air inside your home from the cold air outside of it. Without it, your walls could collect condensation, mold, or other damage. Check your local building codes to see if including an interior vapor barrier is necessary for your building project or renovation, especially for rooms that are likely to be humid, like bathrooms.

The best type of attic insulation depends on where you live, your budget, and what stage of construction the attic is in. For example, if you're building a house, then structural insulated panels are a worthy investment since they're easy to install during construction and they're the most energy-efficient type of insulation.  

Additionally, if you live in a very warm climate, then you can potentially save quite a bit of money by opting for reflective insulation, which is more affordable than comprehensive insulation but doesn't work well for cool climates. Blown-in, loose-fill, and spray foam insulation are all great options for attics in moderate climates.

Ductwork should be wrapped in insulation in certain locations. This includes unconditioned interior parts of the home, such as attics, crawl spaces, basement ceilings, and between floors. Duct joints should also be insulated since they're more likely to leak air than other parts of your system. Building codes in some areas also require ductwork to be insulated.