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Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

After removing existing moss, consider using paver blocking sand to fill the joints. This specialty material hardens once placed and serves as an effective barrier against moss and weeds. From there on, regularly clean your pavers and try to keep them dry. You can also seal your paver as a semi-permanent solution — just make sure you reseal every 3 to 5 years.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

Compared to a 10x20 concrete driveway costing between $800 and $3,000, a resin bound driveway of the same size costing $3,900 to $4,000 is the more expensive option. However, the cost still makes resin a cheaper option compared to a 10x20 paver driveway costing an average of $12,000.