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You will repoint over a fraction of the old mortar, but you should scrape away 1/2 to 1 inch of mortar from the joints before repointing. Otherwise, the repointing is only masking the weakened mortar instead of actually replacing it, which could put your chimney at risk of bigger, more expensive damages later on.

Whether you’re installing brick siding over a traditionally-framed home or you’re using genuine brick construction to build, the biggest downside of a brick house is the higher cost you’ll pay for the materials and labor. Real brick construction also means your home build will take longer, as it’s more time-consuming to construct brick walls than it is to frame out your home.

Yes, but used or reclaimed bricks can be more brittle, cracked, or uneven than new bricks, so they’re harder to cut cleanly by hand. For that reason, you should take extra care when scoring and striking, and expect a higher chance of breakage. If a brick feels especially fragile, score deeper before attempting to split it.

No, it’s not recommended to attach shutters to brick without drilling. Brick is dense and built to last, so adhesives and shortcut methods don’t usually cut it. Even heavy-duty glue struggles to hold up over time—especially against wind, moisture, and temperature changes. Most no-drill options are made for materials like vinyl or wood, not solid masonry. Skipping the drill might seem easier, but it puts your shutters—and anything below them—at risk. For a secure, lasting install, drilling is the way to go. It takes more effort up front, but the result is safer and more reliable.