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Yes, concrete is significantly stronger than masonry, especially if the concrete pour includes reinforcements, like steel rebar. Concrete is a uniform material that can withstand compression, sheer force, and tensile force as long as it’s reinforced. Masonry involves the use of mortar or grout to connect individual building materials, like brick, stone, or tile. Mortar and grout are also reasonably strong and resist compression well, but they don’t come close to the strength of poured concrete.

No, using a power sander on brick is not recommended because the force of the sander can destroy brick's fragile outer layer. Even using sandpaper on brick is discouraged because of the damage its abrasiveness can cause.

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.

Not all cracks in brick indicate foundation problems. For instance, small hairline cracks can occur as a new construction settles. However, larger cracks are often a sign of a more severe issue. Indicators of a potential foundation problem include long horizontal cracks, "stair-step" cracks, vertical cracks that appear indoors, or any crack that widens at the top. Other signs of structural damage to look for are uneven floors and doors or windows that stick. These issues could be caused by problems with the soil beneath the home or an overgrown tree.