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Certain drywall textures, like sand and sometimes popcorn, can be smoothed by applying skim coats, sanding the walls, or chipping away the texture. However, it’s worth considering removing the texture and starting with a blank canvas. Smoothing textured walls requires a lot of sandpaper and elbow grease and can take longer than just outright removing the texture.

Furring strips, thin strips of wood or metal, are not always required for ceiling drywall installation. If the ceiling surface is even and in good condition, drywall can be directly attached to the ceiling joists using screws. However, furring strips become essential when dealing with irregular surfaces or when additional insulation or soundproofing is needed. They create a level substrate for attaching the drywall. Ultimately, the decision to use furring strips depends on the condition of the existing ceiling and the specific requirements of the project.

If your home’s foundation shifts slightly over time, any seams in the drywall represent the weakest point in the wall, leading to cracks. If your home has significant changes in temperature and humidity, this can cause the drywall to swell and contract slightly, causing a crack at the weak point of the seam. If your drywall installer did a poor job securing the panels to the wall studs, this could cause a weak layout and cracks in the seams.

If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.