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To determine the right size generator for your house, you should calculate the total wattage of the appliances and devices you want to power during an outage. List all essential items, note their start-up wattages, and add them together.

Here are some typical wattage requirements for common appliances:

• Refrigerator: 600 watts

• Large dehumidifier: 700 watts

• Large window air conditioner: 1,400 watts

• Water heater: 3,000 to 4,500 watts

• Electric furnace: 5,000 to 25,000 watts

A 7,500-watt generator might be sufficient for essentials like a refrigerator, freezer, well pump, and lighting circuits. However, for high-demand items like a water heater or furnace, a whole-home generator is a better choice. A portable generator may be enough if you only need to power a few critical items.

While home square footage can offer a rough estimate, it is not always a reliable indicator. For reference, here are some typical generator sizes based on square footage:

• 1,000 sq ft: 6–9 kW

• 1,500 sq ft: 7–10 kW

• 2,000 sq ft: 10–14 kW

• 2,500 sq ft: 12–16 kW

• 3,000 sq ft: 16–20 kW+

For the most accurate sizing, consult a professional who can calculate your home's peak and average power consumption and recommend the optimal generator.

While many states require all new construction to undergo blower door tests, it’s not a requirement for existing homes. But in both cases, a blower test helps confirm that the contractor has sealed the exterior, that the type of ductwork installed is functioning properly, and that your home is as efficient as possible.

Blower door tests are measured in a few different ways, but the most popular are air changes per hour (ACH) and cubic feet of air (CFM) moving through the house per hour. A good ACH score is less than 2ACH, but 1ACH is better. This means the house experiences a total air change within 60 minutes (for 1ACH). For 2ACH, there’s a complete change every 30 minutes, and so on. CFM scores are similar in that a lower score means less air change, and therefore less leakage.

Wood windows fall in the middle of the window frame materials when it comes to energy efficiency. They’re more insulating than aluminum and vinyl, but they aren’t as efficient as fiberglass or composite frames. If you love the look and lifespan of wood windows and want to maximize efficiency, you can upgrade to double-pane or triple-pane glass and consider window tinting and low-emissivity (low-E) coatings to minimize heat transfer.