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For Bradford pears, damage from storms is common, and if the trunk splits, it can pose a danger to people and surrounding structures. The best thing to do in that instance is to have the tree removed. If there’s only minor damage to the branches, pruning away the damaged parts is the first order of business. You may also want to consult a professional arborist to make sure the tree is healthy.

It depends. Smaller, younger trees take longer to mature, but they're more resilient, their roots don't get as damaged during transplanting, and they recover faster. Plus, they're much more affordable to plant, and it's possible to DIY the planting. 

On the other hand, mature trees produce fruit faster and provide more shade and privacy immediately. Ideally, a small or medium tree is the better choice if you can wait a few years for it to mature. But if you need immediate maturity, a larger tree is the only option.

Since overwatering can harm mature trees just as much as a lack of water, it’s important to know the signs of an overwatered tree. If your tree’s leaves are yellowing, wilting, or dropping leaves, it’s likely that you’re overwatering. Other common signs include rotting, fungi, soggy soil, soft or peeling bark, falling leaves, and brittle roots. 

If you realize that you’ve been overwatering your mature tree, stop watering and give the soil time to dry out. Then moving forward, increase time between watering sessions. 

In general, trees should be planted no closer than 15 to 20 feet from your foundation. For larger trees with far-reaching roots like maples, oaks, or poplars, a good guide is to plant as many feet from your home as the tree’s height is expected to reach at maturity. Some trees, like elms and willows, should only be planted far from where their roots may encounter sewer or water lines.