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When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

The most affordable way to insulate behind unfinished walls is to install fiberglass batts or rolls. These total around $0.75 per linear foot, with the width matching the gaps between standard studs perfectly. However, it’s important to consider the R-value of your insulation and the climate in your area, as fiberglass insulation isn’t the best in terms of preventing heat transfer. Plus, the most affordable option may cost more on electricity bills over time. The most affordable way to insulate behind finished walls is to leave them up and use blown-in insulation to avoid drywall replacement.

Yes, basement insulation needs a vapor barrier due to its susceptibility to moisture seeping in from the outside of the house. You should install a moisture barrier before you install insulation or purchase insulation that comes prebuilt with a moisture barrier to avoid water damage in your insulation and costly mold and water remediation expenses. 

Structural insulated panels and rigid foam boards have the highest R-value of any insulation that contractors commonly use, with R-values reaching up to around 8.0. These types of insulation are best in extremely cold climates, but they’re generally preferred for new construction, as they can be challenging to retrofit. Blown-in and loose fill insulation provide the next best insulative value, provided the installation is done properly. It’s important to choose an insulation type that meets your needs based on climate, as maximizing R-value may not always be financially worthwhile if you live in a moderate climate.