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A driveway approach is the part of a driveway where the public road meets the private driveway. This section contains several key elements, including the driveway apron, the curb cut, and the end slope. Depending on the slope of the driveway, this area may also contain the trench drain.

Asphalt edging secures the sides of your driveway to prevent crumbling and cracking over time. Most driveways have edges with a 45-degree grading. This helps transfer some of the stress from the asphalt to the ground underneath. If your driveway doesn’t have proper edging, the pressure from your car may break down the edges over time.

New asphalt goes through two stages: drying and curing. Drying typically takes 24 to 72 hours, after which the surface is solid enough for light use like walking or careful driving. While you may be able to park on it after 72 hours, the surface is still soft and should be treated gently. Full curing is a much longer process, taking anywhere from 30 days to a full year for the asphalt to reach maximum strength. During this extended curing period, the asphalt is susceptible to damage from heavy vehicles, sharp objects, and high temperatures. Factors like weather, the specific asphalt mix, and application thickness all influence drying and curing times. For the most accurate timeline and to ensure the longevity of your new asphalt, it is always best to consult with your installation contractor for their specific recommendations.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.