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Chip seal layers gravel and a liquid bitumen one at a time on-site, while asphalt directly pours a pre-combined mixture. Asphalt must be sealed, but it will last up to four times as long as chip seal driveways. Aesthetically, chip seal has a natural, rustic look compared to the traditional asphalt slab.

Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

It takes recycled asphalt 48 hours to initially harden and up to 3 months to fully cure. It’s best to stay off of recycled asphalt for at least 48 hours, then you can walk or drive standard vehicles on it. Hold off on driving heavy trucks or equipment on it for at least 7 days. Allowing the surface to melt together and harden ensures that the surface stays durable and long-lasting.