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On most untreated wood fences, there is no need to sand before treating. You typically only need to sand if there’s an old coat of paint or stain on your fence. If you do need to sand off a previous paint or protective coating (like an old stain or sealant), use medium-grit sandpaper.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

There’s no single paint that’s the most waterproof. Instead, there are several types of waterproof and water-resistant paints that suit different purposes. Epoxy paint, for instance, is commonly used to provide a waterproof coating to floors and decks. Masonry paint is an excellent choice for exterior walls. Meanwhile, there are waterproof acrylic paints that can be used for interior and exterior walls. It’s more about choosing the best type for what you’re painting instead of the most waterproof paint overall.

Moisture and rot are the largest threat to wooden fences. Stain can help your wood fence last 15 to 20 years, but only if you choose a stain with waterproofing qualities or add a sealant. Oil-based stains create a thicker moisture barrier than water-based stains, though both are mold and mildew resistant. You’ll generally need to re-stain your fence every one to eight years to get full protection.