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A roof's ability to handle snow depends on its strength and the snow's weight, as wet snow is much heavier than dry, fluffy snow. While designs in snowy regions often allow for 35 to 50 pounds per square foot, a general guideline is that a typical roof can withstand about four feet of fresh snow, two feet of packed snow, or just one inch of ice. Factors like the roof's age, slope, and support structure also affect its capacity; newer, sloped roofs generally hold more weight than older, flat ones. Ice and ice dams add significant, dangerous weight. Because capacity varies, it is best to contact a professional roofing contractor or the original builder to determine the maximum snow load for your specific home.

Venting a gas water heater out of the roof is preferable in most cases. Heated exhaust gases naturally rise, so a vertical vent pipe is efficient. If you’re trying to vent through a pipe exiting a wall, the angle of the pipe may be more horizontal than vertical, making the venting system less effective. If you go through a wall, you may need to add a fan to ensure a successful expulsion of the gases outdoors.

Yes, moss can be dangerous for your roof if left in place to grow without treatment. The moss soaks up and holds moisture. Having a constantly damp roof could lead to problems with rot for the parts of the roof that consist of wood. Additionally, a patch of thick moss may draw insects and birds, which could damage the roof. Thick moss could block the roof’s drainage system. Water then may back up after a rainstorm and cause further damage that could eventually lead to roof repair expenses or the cost of roof replacement.

Homeowners insurance may cover the cost to tarp a roof if the type of damage falls within your coverage. For example, roof damage caused by a natural disaster may fall within your plan, and the cost of a temporary tarp may be incorporated. In general, however, simply tarping your roof for renovations will often not fall under insurance coverage.