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You should place a layer of thick landscaping fabric directly over the concrete slab and then a thin layer of leveling sand over that to protect the pavers from moisture. For border pavers, you should plan on locking them in place with polyurethane adhesive. This will prevent them from shifting under foot traffic.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

The dimensions of a driveway apron vary based on local building codes, the width of your driveway, and the distance between the driveway and the road. On average, aprons range from 12 to 24 feet wide and 8 to 18 feet long. Typically, the end of the apron connected to the driveway matches its width—such as 10 to 12 feet for a single-car driveway—while the end at the street flares out to allow cars to turn in and out more easily. In some areas, you may not be responsible for the portion of the apron that extends beyond the sidewalk, but this depends on local laws.

Asphalt and tarmac are not the same thing. Traditional tarmac, short for tarmacadam, uses tar as a binder to hold crushed stone together. Asphalt uses bitumen—a byproduct of crude oil—to bind aggregate. Though tarmac was once a go-to for roads, asphalt has become the modern standard. And these days, most surfaces referred to as “tarmac” are actually asphalt. So, while the names may overlap, the key distinction lies in the binder—tar for tarmac and bitumen for asphalt.