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The most common alternative is burning the stump first, then dealing with the cinders and ashes. As you can imagine, this option creates fire hazards, especially since roots can burn underground, hidden, for long afterward. That’s why many states and cities have outlawed the use of stump burning entirely. We do not recommend this option as a viable alternative unless you get a permit from the local fire department and practice all safe burning procedures.

Others prefer a more long-term DIY approach of degrading the stump with home mixtures like Epsom salt and vinegar injected directly into it. This may help the stump decay faster, allowing homeowners to dig it out themselves, but it’s still a lengthy process. It usually takes months for a stump to start falling apart with such treatments, and in the meantime, it can be vulnerable to rot, insects, and other problems.

Always begin by removing large debris, leaves, and branches from your lawn to make room for the rest of your lawn maintenance checklist. Move on to mowing, weeding, and edging in the spaces between your lawn and garden. Lastly, clean off all hardscapes, porches, and patios for a fresh and tidy appearance.

No. Unfortunately, leaf removal is your responsibility, no matter what tree the leaves come from. It would be pretty hard to regulate leaves since they can be moved by the wind or water. Imagine the detective skills it would take to determine which tree each leaf came from and who was then liable for removing it. Instead, plan to remove any leaves on your property.

Generally, it is not necessary to remove old mulch before applying a new layer. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with nutrients. However, you should remove the old layer if it shows signs of fungus or disease, which can be common in moist areas, or if the total depth is already too thick. Avoid letting the total mulch depth exceed 3 inches, as this can harm plant roots. If you do remove old, disease-free mulch, it can be added to a compost pile.