Get matched with top stone and gravel pros in Laurel, NE

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

These materials are durable, low-maintenance, and offer excellent insulation and aesthetic appeal.

Yes, concrete is significantly stronger than masonry, especially if the concrete pour includes reinforcements, like steel rebar. Concrete is a uniform material that can withstand compression, sheer force, and tensile force as long as it’s reinforced. Masonry involves the use of mortar or grout to connect individual building materials, like brick, stone, or tile. Mortar and grout are also reasonably strong and resist compression well, but they don’t come close to the strength of poured concrete.