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Yes, usually you will need some kind of vapor barrier on the exterior walls when the framing is attached to concrete and masonry surfaces.

The primary downside of radiant barriers is their limited effectiveness in cold climates. They are designed to reflect radiant heat, making them less beneficial in cooler conditions where heat retention is more important. 

Radiant barriers require proper installation to maximize effectiveness. Incorrect placement can lead to minimal benefits. They also do not provide insulation, meaning they should be used in conjunction with traditional insulation for optimal energy efficiency. 

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

Insulating windows without plastic is usually the better method. Outside of simply replacing your windows, you could buy cellular shades, which trap air between the window and the home, add a window film that blocks UV rays and traps heat, or cover your windows with a low-emissivity coating called “low-E.”