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You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Yes. Bathroom insulation requires a vapor barrier. As a matter of fact, bathrooms and kitchens are the two areas of the home that should always get a vapor barrier because of the excess moisture. If you don’t have a vapor barrier in place in these rooms, the moisture will build up and eventually lead to mold and bacteria, not to mention the destruction of the insulation.

Insulating windows with plastic works, but it can be time-consuming, and the end results can—and often do—end up lacking in aesthetics. Window film and caulking your windows to make sure there are no drafts are two options that increase the energy efficiency of your home in a low-cost way. Plastic can be a good strategy while you consider alternatives.