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Generally, you’ll want to prune back the trunk by 1 to 2 feet each year to promote bushy growth. Doing so concentrates vegetative buds closer to the bottom of the tree, where you can easily harvest fruit. For side shoots that are a year old, leave at least six leaves. 

Never remove more than 30% of a tree’s foliage during pruning—even if your tree is really overgrown. Removing this much foliage at a time could kill your tree.

If you’re looking to rot a tree stump fast, potassium nitrate will work far quicker than copper nails. First, drill several holes into the stump using a power drill, then pour potassium nitrate pellets into the holes. Next, add water to help the chemical absorb into the wood, thoroughly soaking the stump to ensure the pellets dissolve and spread evenly. Afterward, cover the stump with a tarp to retain moisture and block sunlight, then place mulch on top to secure it in place.

Some trees will bounce back just fine, and others will struggle and possibly die. Evergreens, for instance, have a very difficult time recovering after droughts and usually die after periods of extreme dryness. Usually, you’ll have to just wait and see—if the drought occurs in wintertime, it’s possible that your tree will recover during the gentler springtime.

It’s possible, although a lot depends on the cause of damage and what steps you take. If the remaining parts of the maple tree are alive and not under attack by disease or pests, they can often be saved even if large portions of the maple tree have died. Frequent watering, careful pruning, mulch, and any recommended fungicides or insecticides can all help with survival.