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To adhere pavers to concrete, you can use either mortar or a concrete-specific adhesive. For border pavers, a polyurethane-based adhesive is a good choice as it expands and contracts with temperature changes, keeping them firmly in place. For the non-border pavers, polymeric sand is used between the joints to prevent shifting. In most cases, it is also recommended to lay a permeable sand layer below the pavers to ensure proper stability and drainage. Before starting, always take the proper preparatory steps for a professional result.

There’s no single best asphalt grade—it all comes down to where and how it’s used. Highways and heavy-traffic roads need something tough, like polymer-modified asphalt (PMA) or Stone Matrix Asphalt (SMA). Local roads and parking lots rely on the Performance Graded (PG) system, chosen based on climate. A PG 64-28 mix, for example, handles a broad temperature range while simpler, more cost-effective mixes are typically enough for residential driveways. The best grade of asphalt depends on traffic, weather, and your budget, which is why a professional’s input is always a smart move before making a decision.

Yes, you should lightly wet the sand with a hose before laying the pavers on top. This activates the bonding agents in the sand, ensuring that your pavers don’t shift around during the installation process. However, you should make sure that the sand is not soaked; overwatering can cause the sand and pavers to not set properly.

It takes recycled asphalt 48 hours to initially harden and up to 3 months to fully cure. It’s best to stay off of recycled asphalt for at least 48 hours, then you can walk or drive standard vehicles on it. Hold off on driving heavy trucks or equipment on it for at least 7 days. Allowing the surface to melt together and harden ensures that the surface stays durable and long-lasting.