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R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

One of the clearest signs that your insulation isn’t working as well as it should be is a noticeable difference in temperature throughout your home. One room might feel icy while another is hot as Arizona—this indicates that some parts of your home are either retaining or losing heat more than others. Additionally, a sudden increase in your energy bills, evidence of pests or rodents, or evident water damage are other signals that warrant a thorough inspection of your insulation and potential replacement.

Yes, insulating ductwork in a crawl space is a worthwhile investment, especially if you live in a colder climate or run your air conditioning for most of the year. Uninsulated ducts can lose up to 30% of their heating and cooling efficiency, which can significantly impact your electricity bill. The project is a relatively small investment and typically only takes a few hours. It's a particularly simple add-on if you are already hiring someone to insulate the entire crawl space. An added benefit is that insulated ducts put off less hot or cold air, making them less attractive to pests.

It’s best not to install a radiant barrier directly under insulation because it requires an air gap on at least one side to work properly. Instead, you should install the radiant barrier over your existing insulation to create an air space to reflect the radiant heat.