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You will repoint over a fraction of the old mortar, but you should scrape away 1/2 to 1 inch of mortar from the joints before repointing. Otherwise, the repointing is only masking the weakened mortar instead of actually replacing it, which could put your chimney at risk of bigger, more expensive damages later on.

To stain brick, you should use a product specifically formulated for brick, concrete, or other masonry surfaces. These stains are designed to penetrate the porous surface of the brick and bond with it. This is different from paint, which sits on the surface and is prone to peeling, flaking, and trapping moisture that can cause damage. Water-based brick stains are often recommended because they are easy to apply, even for DIYers, and they allow the brick to breathe. Avoid using regular paint on brick, as it will not adhere properly and can lead to future maintenance problems.

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.

Yes, brick should be clean before staining to ensure the best results. Dirt, dust, mold, mildew, and other substances on the brick can prevent the stain from properly adhering to it. Thoroughly cleaning the brick allows the stain to penetrate and bond to the surface more effectively. Cleaning typically involves using a pressure washer or a stiff brush with mild detergent. However, stubborn residue may require a specialized masonry cleaner.