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Fence Painting FAQs, answered by experts

Yes, you can limewash surfaces other than brick. Plaster, stone, stucco, and concrete can all also be limewashed. Any porous surface that will absorb the wash is a good candidate for limewash, although it won’t help much with waterproofing. If you choose to limewash over paint, you’ll need to prep before applying it to avoid a powdery, chalky finish. Shiny surfaces like metal or glass can’t absorb limewash, so it’s not suited for these.

Yes, you can and should paint or stain pressure-treated wood, as this helps prevent the surface from cracking. However, it is crucial to wait for the wood to dry out completely from the chemical treatment process before applying a finish. If the wood is still wet, the paint will not adhere properly. The drying time can range from weeks to six months. To test if the wood is ready, drip some water onto a board. If the water is absorbed, the wood is dry enough for painting or staining. If the water beads up on the surface, it needs more time to dry. You can build with the wood while it's still wet, but you must wait for it to dry before painting.

Preparation includes cleaning the fence, sanding any rough areas, applying a primer if necessary, and ensuring dry weather for application.

Rags used with oil-based stains are highly flammable and can spontaneously combust in the right conditions. To reduce the fire risk, throw them in a metal container after use and add rocks on top to secure them. Add an inch of water and seal the container. Take the rags in the container to a hazardous waste factory as soon as possible.

The best finish for wrought iron railings is either a semi-gloss or a gloss sheen, as each offers good durability against rain, wind, heat, cold, and snow. 

The Clancy, MT homeowners’ guide to fence painting services

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