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The best time to aerate a lawn is when there's plenty of moisture in the soil, which is the fall or spring seasons. However, keep in mind that lawn aeration isn't very effective when there has been a long period of heavy rain, as the excess water can potentially damage the lawn in the aeration process. Wait until your lawn is predominantly dry to start the aeration process to ensure best results.

Yes, after the lawn is overseeded post-aeration, most of the seed germinates in the aeration holes. This leaves the soil undisturbed while lush and healthy grass will grow in the holes' place. The point of this is to create extra turf density in areas that really need it, such as a large patch of dead grass where a shed used to be.

Hydroseeding over an existing lawn is possible, but certain adjustments are necessary since the process is for bare soil. Hydroseed mix is ​​usually very thick, which helps protect the seeds during germination. If you have existing grass on your site and still want to hydroseed, it's better to use a finer mulch mixture when spraying. A finer mulch mix means the seeds can root into existing soil without suffocating the existing grass.

While your lawn will reap the benefits of core aeration faster than liquid aeration, the liquid solution will last longer and have more cumulative effects. If your lawn is in really bad shape, try both. By creating holes in the soil with the core aerator, you’ll make it easier for your lawn to absorb the liquid aerator solution. You might have to apply the liquid aerator several times during the growing season, but again, the positive results will be more cumulative than with core aeration on its own.