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If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

Three signs that you need crawl space insulation are drafts, high energy bills, and mold. Drafts can start in crawl spaces and cause hot or cold air to spread to the rest of your home through holes in the floors and walls. And even if your entire home is well-insulated, you can still feel an unchecked draft from your crawl space and in your utility bill. Uninsulated crawl spaces can let in air and moisture, and because they’re built directly on the ground and difficult to dry out, they are hotspots for mold and mildew.

Yes, basement insulation needs a vapor barrier due to its susceptibility to moisture seeping in from the outside of the house. You should install a moisture barrier before you install insulation or purchase insulation that comes prebuilt with a moisture barrier to avoid water damage in your insulation and costly mold and water remediation expenses. 

For standard 2x4 walls, the ideal insulation has an R-value between R-13 and R-15. This level of insulation, typically around 3.5 inches thick, fits well within the wall cavity. Common options include fiberglass batts and spray foam. The best choice for your home can depend on your climate; use R-value maps, like those from Energy Star, to determine the recommended level for your region. For colder climates, you might also consider adding exterior insulation for greater efficiency. Always check with your local building codes to ensure you meet any required standards.