Get matched with top masons in Mathiston, MS

You should generally drill into the mortar joints when installing shutters on brick. Mortar is softer, which makes drilling easier and puts less strain on your tools. It also lowers the risk of cracking a brick—something that’s a lot harder to fix. Mortar holds fasteners well enough for standard shutters, and if you ever need to patch the holes later, it’s a much simpler job than dealing with damaged brick. Just keep in mind that if your mortar joints are too thin or the hardware calls for brick anchoring, you'll need to check the manufacturer’s recommendations and adjust accordingly.

The cost of masonry work varies widely depending on the type of masonry along with common cost factors like size, complexity, location, and season. Most exterior masonry work done in freezing temperatures tends to cost more because of the preparation and protection involved to keep the masonry from freezing before the mortar cures properly. The average price ranges per project or square foot for different types of masonry include:

• Brick wall (fence, garden wall, etc.): $10–$45 per square foot

• Natural stone wall: $40–$110 per square foot

• Manufactured stone veneer: $20–$40 per square foot

• Brick home exterior: $10–$30 per square foot

• Brick siding: $3–$10 per square foot

• Stone siding: $35–$50 per square foot

• Brick step replacement: $20–$30 per square foot

• Brick wall repair: $20–$40 per square foot

• Chimney repairs: $160–$750 per project

• Tuckpointing: $5–$25 per square foot

Yes, it is essential to prime or seal a brick fireplace before painting. Brick is a porous and highly absorbent material, so without a primer, paint can seep into the surface, resulting in uneven coverage and allowing the natural brick color to show through. To avoid this, apply one or two coats of a masonry primer. The primer will seal the brick and provide a smooth, uniform layer for the paint to adhere to. Ensure the primer is completely dry before applying the topcoat of paint.

No, you shouldn’t lay bricks directly on dirt. While it might seem like a shortcut, it leads to a patio that shifts, sinks, and becomes a maintenance headache. Dirt expands, contracts, and erodes—none of which mix well with long-term stability. To build something that lasts, excavate the topsoil, compact a layer of crushed gravel, and add a coarse sand-setting bed. This layered base gives your bricks proper support, allows drainage, and helps block weeds from creeping through. Cutting corners here just means you’ll spend more time—and money—repairing your brick patio later.