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In most cases, no, you won’t need a permit to replace drywall. If you’re changing the floorplan of your home by adding or removing walls during the drywall project, then you might need a permit, but replacement or repairs usually doesn’t require a permit. Your drywall professional should be able to confirm whether or not a permit is required for your project. If it is, it’s likely to add between $50 and $150 to your total cost. Keep in mind that you will need permits if you plan to install new electrical wiring or plumbing lines behind your new drywall.

If you want to reduce sound transmission throughout your home, soundproofing drywall is a better choice than standard drywall. However, simply installing soundproofing drywall may not completely block out noise. You’ll get the best results from incorporating it into a larger soundproofing plan that includes proper insulation and framing studs.

All plaster walls will crack over time due to normal house settling and expansion and contraction from temperature and moisture changes. Small, thin hairline cracks are generally not serious and are mostly a cosmetic issue. However, larger or more significant cracks can indicate structural problems.

Here's how to tell the difference:

• Cosmetic Cracks: Cracks that are 0.5 cm (0.2 inches) or thinner are typically cosmetic.

• Structural Cracks: Cracks wider than 0.5 cm, excessive or deep cracks, multiple cracks in the same area, or cracks that span around corners can signify a structural or foundation issue. Cracks along the joints where walls meet the ceiling also warrant attention.

For cracks wider than 0.5 cm, structural repair is needed. If a crack is 2.5 cm (1 inch) or wider, or if you notice any signs of a structural problem, it is best to contact a plaster repair professional to assess the damage.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.