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Generally, it is not necessary to remove old mulch before applying a new layer. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with nutrients. However, you should remove the old layer if it shows signs of fungus or disease, which can be common in moist areas, or if the total depth is already too thick. Avoid letting the total mulch depth exceed 3 inches, as this can harm plant roots. If you do remove old, disease-free mulch, it can be added to a compost pile.

The growth of tall fescue grass often causes clumps of grass in your lawn. Avoid pulling up the clumps, as it won’t effectively remove them. Instead, dig out clumps and their roots when you notice them early in the growing season. Herbicides can also treat grass clumps, but they can also affect other plants you might not want to kill, so use them sparingly and always follow manufacturer instructions.

Yes, you can conduct your own leaf removal, but consider that keeping up with leaf removal is time-consuming and requires regular yard work throughout the fall. The process can take a few hours a week. Professionals have lawn equipment that can speed up the process and save you time. Additionally, consider how you’ll dispose of the leaves. If your sanitation company won’t pick them up—especially if you have many bags from a once-annual cleanup— you’ll have to drive the bags to the dump. It’s usually easier to leave the work and disposal to a professional leaf removal service.

There are several ways to decompose yard waste quickly. The first step is to move all debris into a compost bin or pile. From there, microorganisms, bacteria, and insects will break down the yard waste into compost. To speed things up, shred the waste into smaller pieces, add live worms to the pile, or introduce nitrogen-rich compost accelerators like grass clippings, coffee grounds, and manure. Turn the compost over every few days. This process, called aerating, allows oxygen to get in and accelerate decomposition.