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If tree branches cross well into your property line, in many cases, these branches become part of your property, and you can trim them up until your neighbor’s property line. However, this issue will vary based on local ordinances, so you should do your research before making any decisions. Better yet, speak with your neighbor about how to handle any tree issues. 

If you don’t mind the branches, you can leave them be, but if they’re becoming a hazard, it’s definitely worth having a conversation.

Since overwatering can harm mature trees just as much as a lack of water, it’s important to know the signs of an overwatered tree. If your tree’s leaves are yellowing, wilting, or dropping leaves, it’s likely that you’re overwatering. Other common signs include rotting, fungi, soggy soil, soft or peeling bark, falling leaves, and brittle roots. 

If you realize that you’ve been overwatering your mature tree, stop watering and give the soil time to dry out. Then moving forward, increase time between watering sessions. 

There are several methods to hollow out a tree stump, and the best one depends on your tools, experience, and priorities. Common methods include using a chisel and hammer, a chainsaw, or burning.

• Chisel and Hammer: This is often considered the easiest approach for those with limited tools or experience, though it is the most time-consuming.

• Chainsaw: Using a chainsaw is the fastest method, but it comes with significant safety risks, especially for inexperienced users.

• Burning: This can be an effective method, but it is not recommended unless you can first drill holes into the stump. Without holes, the stump will be difficult to light and may not burn completely through.

A power drill with at least a ⅜-inch diameter bit can make the job quicker and easier, regardless of the primary method. While you can use a chisel or chainsaw without a drill, it will require more time and effort. Always wear protective goggles and thick gloves, as splinters are an inevitable risk.

You should avoid cutting off the top of mature cherry trees. This process is called tree topping, and it’s not recommended for cherry trees—or any trees, for that matter. Tree topping removes between one-third to half of the length of the tree trunk, resulting in structurally unsound, fruitless suckers. The only exception is for saplings. Young pie, sour, and tart cherry trees that are over 30 inches tall in the fall or winter before the tree blooms can benefit from heading cuts.