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Brush Chipping FAQs, answered by experts

Generally, it is not necessary to remove old mulch before applying a new layer. As organic mulch breaks down, it enriches the soil with nutrients. However, you should remove the old layer if it shows signs of fungus or disease, which can be common in moist areas, or if the total depth is already too thick. Avoid letting the total mulch depth exceed 3 inches, as this can harm plant roots. If you do remove old, disease-free mulch, it can be added to a compost pile.

It may sound icky, but yes, urine encourages microbial activity that breaks down organic matter faster. It’s rich in nitrogen, which helps balance carbon-heavy materials like dry leaves or straw. Use sparingly and apply it to a well-balanced pile, not one already high in nitrogen. 

Yes, you can conduct your own leaf removal, but consider that keeping up with leaf removal is time-consuming and requires regular yard work throughout the fall. The process can take a few hours a week. Professionals have lawn equipment that can speed up the process and save you time. Additionally, consider how you’ll dispose of the leaves. If your sanitation company won’t pick them up—especially if you have many bags from a once-annual cleanup— you’ll have to drive the bags to the dump. It’s usually easier to leave the work and disposal to a professional leaf removal service.

Professionals use appropriate equipment to prevent property damage and ensure efficiency.

Yes, you can absolutely make your own mulch, and there are a few ways to go about it. First, you can lay down pine needles or mulched leaves if you’re mulching in the fall. In the spring and summer, you can use mulched grass clippings. Alternatively, you can lay down a few layers of newspaper in your garden and gently wet the paper to keep it in place.

The Victoria, MN homeowners’ guide to brush chipping services

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