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If you’re using faced insulation with paper, face the paper toward the inside of the room during the installation process. 

A good way to remember this is that the paper should face the “warm side” as it’s the vapor barrier, meaning it should face toward where the heat will be coming from.

In some areas, insulation companies require a special license, while some states only require them to hold general contractor licenses. Some municipalities may not mandate any license, although you should always ensure a contractor is fully insured. You can use Angi’s license lookup tool to confirm whether or not an insulation contractor you’re considering holds the necessary license for your area. You can also contact the company for information regarding licenses, certifications, and insurance.

You do not always need to remove old insulation before adding new. If the existing insulation is in good condition—not wet, physically damaged, moldy, or infested with pests—you can add new insulation directly on top of it for a compounding effect. You can also mix different types, such as adding blown-in insulation around existing fiberglass batts.

However, removal is recommended if the old insulation is compromised by water damage or pests. You should also remove it if you plan to install a different type of insulation, like switching from roll or batt insulation to spray foam. If the existing insulation is very old or damaged, you will likely get more benefit from removing it and starting fresh.

Blown-in insulation works, but only for unfinished attics. Also, it isn’t the longest-lasting nor the most effective option. For better options, look into spray foam insulation or natural fiber batts. They typically have a longer lifespan, better heat resistance, and stronger sound-proof abilities. Spray foam insulation costs about $1.25 to $1.50 per square foot, but can go up to more than $4 per square foot. Fiber batt pricing varies depending on the material.