Get matched with top concrete mudjacking pros in Fountain, MI

Polyjacking and mudjacking can both be effective solutions for sinking concrete, but they have key differences. Polyjacking, which uses expanding polyurethane foam, is often considered a better option because the foam is significantly lighter than the cementitious material used for mudjacking. This reduced weight puts less pressure on the underlying soil and lowers the risk of future sinking. Polyjacking is suitable for any sinking concrete slab, while mudjacking is typically only recommended for non-structural concrete, such as sidewalks, patios, pool decks, and driveways. The primary drawback of polyjacking is its cost, which can be up to four times higher than mudjacking—as much as $25 per square foot compared to a maximum of about $6 per square foot for mudjacking.

Trenching and boring are two distinct methods for installing underground utilities. Trenching involves digging a channel using equipment like an excavator, trencher, backhoe, or shovel. While it is a simpler process, it causes significant disruption to the surface, landscaping, and surrounding ecosystems.

Boring, also known as directional boring, is a less invasive alternative that uses a drill to create a tunnel for utility lines without disturbing the surface. This method is more precise and is ideal for installations that need to go underneath buildings, roads, or bodies of water. Although boring is less disruptive, it is generally more expensive than trenching.

Generally speaking, push piers—or steel piers—are the best option for underpinning, as they reach down to solid bedrock to find support for your foundation rather than relying on soil, which could be subject to the same issues as the soil directly below your foundation. However, the best underpinning method for your home depends on your location, how far down the bedrock is, and the type of soil in your area. Helical piers are usually the best option for sandy soil or in areas where the bedrock is too deep to use steel piers.

A good slump height really depends on the project, but there is a use for nearly all slump levels. For example, low slumps are best in projects that require structure, such as curbs and roads. High slumps often require additional reinforcement, but they flow more freely into hard-to-reach spaces.