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Cellular shades, also known as honeycomb shades, are the most energy-efficient and insulating window treatments. Their honeycomb structure is made of soft fabric that forms layered cell pockets. These pockets trap air, creating a thermal barrier that reduces heat loss in the winter and blocks heat gain in the summer. For even greater insulation, consider double- or triple-cell varieties. Side-tracked cellular shades, which seal the edges of the window frame, can further minimize air leaks and maximize energy efficiency.

If you need to insulate behind finished walls, the best option will likely be to have an insulation professional install blown-in insulation. The installation requires small holes cut in your wall, after which the installer can blow loose-fill insulation into the void. After the installation, you’ll have minor drywall patching, which shouldn’t cost more than $100. Compared to ripping down the existing drywall, using a different type of insulation, and replacing and finishing the drywall, this should save you hundreds or even thousands, depending on the size of the room you’re insulating.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.

Insulating an unheated garage can still be worth it. For instance, insulating an attached garage can help with heat loss from your house in general, and it can also make it easier to store electronics in your garage without worrying about them being exposed to extreme temperatures.

If you use your detached garage as a workspace, insulation can still make a difference. Plus, you can use space heaters and a window unit AC to help condition the space while you work without installing heating.