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The best way to stop your pavers from sinking is to ensure you've properly compacted the base layers. Use your paver compactor and work over the base layer several times to create the hardest possible base. If the soil and sand of your base are compact, you’ll experience less shifting and sinking.

You can pour concrete over asphalt if it’s in good condition, thick, stable, and well-compacted. Concrete is more durable than asphalt and can extend the lifetime of your driveway without having to pay frequent asphalt driveway repair costs or replace it completely. 

But this is best reserved as a temporary solution based on budget restraints, as asphalt requires more frequent repairs and assessments than concrete. Once that concrete top is poured, it’ll be harder to accurately understand what’s happening beneath that layer, which could lead to more issues.

Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

Professional installers often include a deep layer of crushed gravel under permeable pavers to allow more runoff to soak through into the soil below. Many installations will include multiple layers of gravel, with coarser aggregate at the base and finer aggregate that sits on top of that bottom layer. Above the gravel, you’ll often find coarse sand that helps reduce paver shifting over time. Some permeable paver designs include a water collection system set into the gravel layer to route runoff to a safe area for disposal.