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Whether to repair or replace water-damaged plaster depends on the scale of the damage. For small, limited areas, you can often perform a repair yourself. If you choose to paint over small patches, ensure the surface is completely dry and apply a coat of antifungal primer first to prevent mold growth. However, simply painting or plastering over the damage is only a temporary solution that doesn't address the core problem. For more extensive or long-term damage, the plaster may be compromised, and there is a risk of mold. In these cases, it is recommended to remove the damaged section of plasterboard and replace it. You may consider hiring a professional for the repair, and it's worth noting that water damage is often covered by home insurance.

On average, drywall installation costs around $2,000, with a typical range of $400 to $6,000, including materials and labor. The final price depends on several factors. The most significant is the size of the area, as many contractors charge per square foot. Other cost factors include the complexity of the job (e.g., cutting around multiple windows and doors, corners, or curved walls), accessibility, location, the thickness of the drywall, the height of the room, and the desired level of finish. The level of finish can range from simply hanging the drywall to taping and mudding the seams and painting the walls.

If your home was built before the 1940s and was not remodeled in the past 50 or so years, you probably have plaster walls. Aside from assuming, there are some practical ways to tell if you have plaster walls, including the following: If you knock on the wall and it feels solid, not hollow, if you can’t insert a thumbtack easily, if there are cracks that look like spiderwebs, or if your home has curved, arched, or swirled walls, doorways, or window openings.

If you have an unfinished basement or attic, you could examine the backs of any finished walls to check, too.

The easiest way to tell if a wall is load bearing is to check if it’s an exterior wall or if it runs perpendicular to the joists above and below it (or parallel to beams). Exterior walls are almost always load-bearing, and walls that run under beams or parallel to them are also usually load-bearing. There are exceptions to these rules, and walls that don’t fit into these categories can still be load-bearing. If you’re unsure, hire a structural engineer to look at your home to assess whether or not the wall is structural.