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For standard 2x4 walls, the ideal insulation has an R-value between R-13 and R-15. This level of insulation, typically around 3.5 inches thick, fits well within the wall cavity. Common options include fiberglass batts and spray foam. The best choice for your home can depend on your climate; use R-value maps, like those from Energy Star, to determine the recommended level for your region. For colder climates, you might also consider adding exterior insulation for greater efficiency. Always check with your local building codes to ensure you meet any required standards.

In addition to adding insulation to your attic, you may want to add a radiant barrier. A radiant barrier works by using reflective material, such as foil, on the attic floor. As heat penetrates the roof and enters the attic, the radiant barrier reflects the heat upward and back through the roof. If you receive a lot of direct sunlight on the roof, using both a radiant barrier and insulation in your attic can provide significant benefits.

Insulating a detached garage won't reduce your home's heating or cooling bills—and insulating an attached garage will only have a small effect on your home's energy efficiency. However, insulating an attached garage can reduce the transfer of heating and cooling to and from the outdoors, which can reduce the amount of energy your home needs to stay comfortable. Also, having an insulated garage is just more pleasant. Balance the cost of insulating your garage with how you'll use the space to determine if the project is worth it.

When installing board and batten siding, make sure there is wall sheathing and a moisture-resistant barrier installed. Behind that sheathing should be plywood or OSB for you to nail the boards and battens into. If there isn’t plywood or OSB, you can install vertical furring strips at 1½- to 2-foot intervals to nail the boards and battens to.