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R-30 insulation is better for higher thermal resistance, but whether it’s "better" depends on the application. R-30 is much thicker and suited for areas like attics or floors in cold climates, where more insulation is required. R-13, on the other hand, is thinner and works well for 2x4 walls or milder climates where less insulation is sufficient. Choosing between R-13 and R-30 depends on the area being insulated and the climate. For example, R-30 provides more insulation but may not fit everywhere in your home.

Blown-in insulation works, but only for unfinished attics. Also, it isn’t the longest-lasting nor the most effective option. For better options, look into spray foam insulation or natural fiber batts. They typically have a longer lifespan, better heat resistance, and stronger sound-proof abilities. Spray foam insulation costs about $1.25 to $1.50 per square foot, but can go up to more than $4 per square foot. Fiber batt pricing varies depending on the material.

Air duct insulation typically lasts for 10 to 15 years or even longer, depending on the material and maintenance. It's important to conduct periodic inspections to check for signs of deterioration, such as water damage, tears, or general wear. If you find any of these issues, it may be time for repairs or a full replacement. You might also consider upgrading your insulation even if it's in good shape to improve your home's energy efficiency and enhance your HVAC system's performance with newer, more effective materials.

Unfaced wall insulation is easier to cut and install, making it the better choice for a DIY project. It’s also more affordable. But if it’s unfaced, you’ll likely need to add a vapor barrier to reach your desired R-value and efficiency, as it doesn’t offer any moisture barrier.

Faced insulation uses paper or foil to create a built-in barrier and doesn’t require an extra step. It’s also more fire-resistant and safe. But it’s quite a bit more expensive and a little bit harder to work with as a DIYer.