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Transplanting a palm tree is a similar process except for a couple of important differences. First, their root ball doesn’t need to be as large as a “true” tree, which makes them a bit easier to dig up and move around. Second, they struggle more with taking root and staying upright in a new location, so it’s important to give them extra support when staking. 

In most cases, leaving tree roots underground is not a problem if the stump has been removed or ground below the soil. However, some larger roots may decompose, leaving dents in your soil. Additionally, some aggressive trees, including willows, oaks, elms, maples, and poplars may grow back from roots. Large aggressive trees with established root systems are more likely to grow back.

Completely topping a plum tree is a risky business. Cut too much, and you’ll kill your tree. That said, you do need to trim the top of your tree to encourage bushy growth, maintain your tree’s vase shape, and limit size. 

A plum tree's central leader (or trunk) should never extend more than 3 feet above the highest branch. When you first plant your tree, cut the central leader so it’s 2 to 3 feet tall. As it grows, cut it back 12 to 20 inches until it reaches its desired height. Never prune more than one-third of the new growth.

It’s not as common for Dutch elm disease to affect other types of trees, especially if the surrounding trees aren’t elms. However, it is possible for DED to spread to other trees, particularly in northern states, like Minnesota. In fact, it’s a good idea to use geography to identify wood and determine which types of trees are in your yard. 

Unfortunately, the complex and shallow root system of elm trees makes surrounding elm trees particularly vulnerable to DED. Early discovery is key!