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For safety reasons, leaning trees are best removed by a professional, as they may often tear away from the hinge, causing you to lose control over where the tree falls. If you choose to cut down a tree leaning slightly, avoid cutting off root protrusions before you start. Make your hinge a little longer than usual by cutting it deeper (up to 30% of the diameter) and applying a wedge into the felling cut on the side the tree is leaning. Stand away from the direction the tree leans while making your felling cut.

On grafted trees, tree suckers will grow from the root stock, not the branches grafted onto it. Therefore, the leaves and characteristics of the suckers aren’t the same as the tree because they are different varieties. Root stock has more hardiness, strength, or drought tolerance than its grafted limbs, so if the suckers are from fruit or flowers, it might be different than the main part of your tree.

The best way to protect tree roots is to avoid the roots entirely by excavating outside the root radius of the tree. For nearby projects, it’s a good idea to construct a temporary retaining wall. But that’s not always possible, depending on the project and the root system. In these cases, consider using alternative equipment like an auger to tunnel under the ground.

Remember, tree roots can damage nearby cement foundations as they grow. If a tree is close enough to interfere with large excavations, it may be better to remove the tree than risk future problems.

It’s not always easy to tell when a tree is dying, although signs like dropping branches and brittle bark can sometimes offer clues. It can also be difficult to know whether a tree is dead or dormant, especially if it’s a deciduous tree. You’ll want to wait until a growth season to get a good idea of a tree’s health. When in doubt, contact an arborist for a consultation.