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Wet cutting is usually the preferred method. It controls dust, which helps protect your lungs and makes for a cleaner working environment. Plus, the water cools the blade, preventing overheating and prolonging its life while providing smoother, more precise cuts. The downside is the mess—water and asphalt sludge can be messy to clean. Dry cutting, though convenient if water isn’t available, creates a lot of dust, which can be harmful. This also increases the risk of blade damage due to overheating. So, if you have the option, wet cutting is the better method for most asphalt jobs.

While blacktop is a type of asphalt, the terms should not be used interchangeably, as not all asphalt qualifies as blacktop. The primary differences are in their composition, production process, and ideal applications. Blacktop contains more stone than other types of asphalt and is heated to a higher temperature during production—300°F or more—while hot-mix asphalt is heated to between 275°F and 300°F. The ratio of bitumen (a tar-like crude oil) is a key differentiator, though sources vary: some state blacktop has less bitumen, making it less durable, while others claim it has a higher ratio. Due to these differences, asphalt is generally more durable and better for high-traffic areas like highways and streets, while blacktop is more suitable for playgrounds and residential driveways. For a driveway project, it is best to consult a professional to determine the most appropriate material.

The three most common types of asphalt are hot asphalt, MC cold mix, and UPM asphalt. Hot asphalt is used most often for paving and patching roadways while it’s hot and workable. MC cold mix asphalt cures more slowly than hot asphalt, but it can be used for temporary patches and repairs in low-traffic areas. UPM is also used cold, but it can be used as a longer-term fix, usable in almost any conditions at almost any temperature.

New asphalt goes through two stages: drying and curing. Drying typically takes 24 to 72 hours, after which the surface is solid enough for light use like walking or careful driving. While you may be able to park on it after 72 hours, the surface is still soft and should be treated gently. Full curing is a much longer process, taking anywhere from 30 days to a full year for the asphalt to reach maximum strength. During this extended curing period, the asphalt is susceptible to damage from heavy vehicles, sharp objects, and high temperatures. Factors like weather, the specific asphalt mix, and application thickness all influence drying and curing times. For the most accurate timeline and to ensure the longevity of your new asphalt, it is always best to consult with your installation contractor for their specific recommendations.